No:49 – Kazakhstan – The land of Steppes, Horses and Borat :-)

About the Blog …

The blog is based on my visit to Kazakhstan, as a part of my 2023 Silk Road Tour.

Type of vacation …

Southern Kazakhstan solo tour with driver(s) and guide(s).

About Me …

Country Counter: Countries/territories I have visited so far …

Travel TipsTips based on my travels so far …

What I liked best …

(1) The never-ending grasslands and hills

(2) Less crowds

What I did not like …

(1) Horse meat 🙂

(2) Quite cold, even in April (Please note that I am a “Tropics” guy)

Location in the World map …

Some interesting tidbits about Kazakhstan…

  • “Kazakh” is believed to have come from Turkish word “Qaz”, “to wander”. The Persian suffix -stan means “land” or “place of”, so Kazakhstan can be literally translated as “land of the wanderers”.
  • Kazakhstan, in Central Asia and a former Soviet republic, extends from the Caspian Sea in the west to the Tian Shan and Altai Mountains at its eastern border with China and Russia.
  • World’s largest land-locked country.
  • Kazakhstan terrain has deserts, lakes, mountains, flatlands Etc.
  • The last of the USSR Republics to declare independence after the disbanding of USSR in 1991.
  • Nursultan Nazarbayev, the first president of Kazakhstan, was believed to be an authoritarian, and his government was accused of numerous human rights violations. E.g. Suppression of dissent and censorship of the media. Nazarbayev resigned in March 2019 and was made the Kazakhstan Security Council’s chairman-for-life. He had the capital’s name changed to his first name.
  • Kazakhs form 65% of the population
  • Islam is 70% and Christianity is 25%
  • Kazakhstan is the 9th largest country in the world, area wise.

#1: Russia

#2: Canada

#3: United States of America

#4: China

#5: Brazil

#6: Australia

#7: India

#8: Argentina

#9: Kazakhstan

#10: Algeria

  • Kazakhstan was the last of the Stans to withdraw from the USSR. Kazakhstan seems to have good relations with other countries in the area. They have strong economic ties to the European Union, China, and Russia.
  • Apple supposedly originates from Kazakhstan.
  • The name “Almaty” is translated as “full of apples” (“Alma” means “apple” in the Turkish language.) The region is thought to be the birthplace of the Apple and is known for its wild apple forests in the foothills of the Tian Shan Mountains.
  • Almaty is supposed to have been founded in 1016 AD, making it 1001 years old.
  • Kazakhstan and Russia share 4,200+ miles of border, so it is no wonder that there has been a strong Russian presence in Kazakhstan, long before the “Soviet period” began around 1920.
  • Astana is the second coldest capital city of the world. The temperature in winter there can go as low as -50C (-58F)!
  • Kazakhstan has a typical climate with hot summers and cold winters. The temperature varies depending on the region of the country. The summers in the southern part of the country can be brutal, with temperatures going up to 40°C (104F).
  • “Mashrutka” == Local buses. You can ask locals (E.g. Hotel) which number bus you need to get on or you can use the app Maps.Me. Just type in the name of your location and destination and the app will show you the number of the bus or the Mashrutka that is going there.
  • The Kazakhs are descendants of ancient Turkic nomadic tribes and used to travel along the Kazakhstan steppes for centuries. Their culture was very similar to the nomadic culture in Kyrgyzstan.
  • Kazakhstan has massive Oil & Natural Gas reserves.
  • Kazakhstan is a multinational state inhabited by 18+ million people belonging to more than 120 nationalities.
  • “Steppe” == Large area of grasslands. Just flat lands. Kazakh Steppe is believed to be the largest in the World.
  • Lake Balkhash (15th largest lake in the World) has clear fresh water in the West side and saline water in the East side.
  • Kazakhstan has the World’s largest Space Launch center (Baikonur Cosmodrome) and it is currently leased to Russia
  • The tradition of hunting with Hawks and Falcons is still popular in Kazakhstan.

 

My Experiences

Phew! 3 years and 6 months (1288 days to be precise!) since the last time (Iceland) I stepped foot in a new country.

Kazakhstan!

I never imagined that I will go 3.5 years without entering a new country. Damn @#$! COVID. Lost precious 3.5 years. Time for approximately 16-18 new countries. Anyway, have to take it on the chin and move on.

I took the recent rise of Kazakh player Elena Rybakina (formerly from Russia) as sign that I would be in Kazakhstan soon 🙂

Initial impressions:
(1) Man, it is freaking COLD here! In April!
(2) Immigration was way stricter than my visits to Motherland (Russia). The dude did a 5min detailed comparison of the photo in the passport and my face.

Kazakh Tenge … 1 INR == 5.46 KZT.
The densely populated “teeming with humanity” Kazakhstan 🙂 Motorways have speed limits of 110kmph/140kmph. Roads were not highly smooth, though.
One of the many villages that dotted the countryside. Cannot imagine how cold it will be during winters.
Taken during the ride from Almaty to Charyn Canyon. It was a beautiful (though cold) day. I think I got sunburned (Do not like Sunscreen lotions as it makes me feel sticky) with all the walking.
The check post to get into the Charyn Canyon area.
Charyn Canyon National Park: There are many information boards like this, spread all around the canyon park.
Charyn Canyon National Park: During my exploration of the Charyn Canyon …
Charyn Canyon National Park: During my exploration of the Charyn Canyon …
Charyn Canyon National Park: In case you are in doubt as to where you are 🙂
Charyn Canyon National Park: During my exploration of the National Park …
Charyn Canyon National Park: The restrooms/toilets inside the Charyn Canyon are what is called “Dry Toilets”. The boards, which explains the, ahem, “technology”, was a bit stomach-churning, to be frank 🙂
Charyn Canyon National Park: One of the several seating areas along the rim of the Canyon.
Charyn Canyon National Park: After covering the top areas of the Canyon, I moved to the Canyon itself. There are steps to get down to that level.
Charyn Canyon National Park: During my exploration of the National Park … The trek along the base of Charyn Canyon. Actually, there were quite a few visitors, mainly local Kazakhs and a handful of foreign tourists. Met a Swiss couple and a few others.
Charyn Canyon National Park: A narrow opening. The park has these trucks which ferry people from the Visitor Center area to the Charyn River area (around 2.5-3 kilometers). Those trucks get to go through this opening.
Charyn Canyon National Park: Charyn River. Pretty strong currents …
Charyn Canyon National Park: Charyn River. Pretty strong currents … The bad boy who created the Charyn Canyon over thousands of years. Swimming is prohibited and looking at the strong currents, can understand WHY.
Charyn Canyon National Park: Charyn River. Pretty strong currents … The bad boy who created the Charyn Canyon over thousands of years. Swimming is prohibited and looking at the strong currents, can understand WHY.
How can one leave Kazakhstan without seeing wild horses 🙂 Horses play a major role in Kazakh Culture. The nomadic life includes use of Horses, Sheep, Camels Etc. for Transportation, Clothing and, yes, Food!
Had this lemon-based fizzy drink on the way back from Charyn Canyon National Park.
View from one the villages we passed through … On the way back to Almaty.
First of all, please pardon the poor photo quality. It is not easy to get a great picture from inside a fast-moving vehicle on a not-perfectly-smooth road 😀 Anyway, if you look closely, you can see WHY Kazakhstan is so cold 😉😀 Those are the Tian Shan Mountains, by the way.
Liked the way all residential communities had ample play areas for children.
A more complete set of Kazakh Tenge (Roughly, 1 INR == 5.5 KZT). As with many countries, very colorful notes.
The background of the snow-capped Tian Shan mountains give Almaty a very picturesque tint. In case you haven’t noticed, vehicles drive on the right and the driver seat is to the left (Like in USA. Wasn’t Kazakhstan part of USSR? 🙂 )
Loved this picture … Kazakh on a horse, with a Hawk. All critical parts of Kazakh Culture.
Wāli-ūllah Abū’l-Mansūr Khan … What a mouthful. Abylai Khan or Ablai Khan, a famous Kazakh king. This statue is right in front of the train station.
“Almaty 2” Train Station. As you can notice, it was another beautiful day. Not a cloud in sight …
Had a Cappucino from this stall. Enjoyed it, in the cold weather.
The train from Almaty to Astana (Nur-Sultan) region. Interiors looked nice. Hope to take it some day.
Train timings at “Almaty 2” Train Station.
Capitalism! 🙂 The menu is Kazakh-ified for the local palate.
Inside the Almaty Metro train.
The short and sweet Almaty Metro network. 11 stations in total. Looking at the number of locals using the service, the route has been well thought out.
Almaty Metro Stations: Each station had a uniqueness to it. There were several artwork depicting Kazakh Culture.
Almaty Metro train. Made by Hyundai. The stations and trains are very clean. There is a train every 9-10 minutes.
Almaty Metro Stations: Each station had a uniqueness to it. There were several artwork depicting Kazakh Culture.
Almaty Metro Stations: Each station had a uniqueness to it. There were several artwork depicting Kazakh Culture.
Had this berry-based dessert during dinner …
Chicken Samsa … Kazakhstan style. That is a dip based on Yogurt.
Anastasia, my guide in Almaty: Born in Taraz, Kazakhstan. Ukranian Father and Russian Mother. Studied “Translation” and Languages in Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) for 7 years. Has been in Almaty for 1 year. Her husband works in IT. She feels that Kazakhs are more arrogant and love luxury items. Kyrgyzs are more simple, in her opinion. She speaks good English. Her husband is a Kazakh. They met in Bishkek, during studies. Father has never been to Ukraine. He watches Russian TV channels a lot, and naturally, hates USA 🙂 Anastitia was brought up in Kazakhstan. Her Mother is from Siberia region, originally. Lot of former USSR people dream of returning to Russia. Russia provides incentives for having children. She knows Bruno Mars, Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt Etc. and is very up-to-date with Western Pop Culture. When we saw an advertisement for a Kazakh coffee with Brad Pitt, we joked that Brad probably has never even heard of this company and his image has been copyright-violated 🙂
Pigeons … Pigeons … Pigeons …
Panfilov Park, Almaty: Dedicated to the Soviet/Russian soldiers who fought in the “Great Patriotic War” (World War II). There are in total 28 soldiers depicted in the park.
Zeleny Bazaar: The view from 1st floor.
Closer view of the top of the Obelisk at Republic Square. Snow Leopard is the national animal of Kazakhstan.
Republic Square, Almaty, Kazakhstan. Was created in the 1980s. On top of the Obelisk is a statue based on the body of a young warrior recovered from a burial site nearby, dating back to 2nd Century.
Bronze model of Kazakhstan Constitution. The hand print is that of the 1st President of Kazakhstan, Nursultan Nazarbayev.
Base of the Obelisk at Republic Square, Almaty.
One of the several Bronze artwork, depicting Kazakh history, at Republic Square, Almaty, Kazakhstan.
A depiction of Kazakh rural life … At Almaty State Museum.
A 14-pronged lamp … At Almaty Museum.
Almaty city is over 1000 years old. A display of the water transport system used then. At Almaty Museum.
Weapon display … Keep in mind that Kazakhstan has a history from Mongol period as well. Many locals have a resemblance to East Asian people as well. At Almaty Museum.
I love colorful Ceramics … At Almaty Museum. The museum is worth a 1.5-2hr visit.
A nice photo showing the beautiful Tian Shan Mountains background … At Almaty Museum.
Kazakh costumes … At Almaty Museum.
Seeing this Mercedes 2-seater after a long long time (Saw it for the 1st time in US, years ago) …
The Desserts spread, during lunch …
My first attempt with Horse meat. The dish to the right, Beshbarmark, is a traditional Kazakh dish, made with Horse meat (You can make it with other meats as well. I picked Horse meat). You can also see Horse meat in sausage form. My verdict? Did not like it. Texture-wise, was like a lean meat. Horse meat is a bit more expensive here and is considered a luxury.
Another view of the Desserts … It was yum!
Kazakh Baursak is what this is, I believe …
The very long Cable Car line at Shymbulak Ski Resort …
On the way we see so many nice rental houses …
Shymbulak Ski Resort, Almaty, Kazakhstan. Ski season is winding down over here. I saw a lot of Desis in Almaty today. Students who throng this region for Medicine Etc.? Tour groups? Not sure. We were in a hurry and could not chat. Anyway, there are 3 stages of cable cars. Overall it is a 40min ride up to 3200m altitude. In case you wonder why some photos have a yellow tint, it is because of the glass shade in the cable cars 🙂

 

View of Almaty city from Kok-Tobe. Almaty, which is at the foothills of Tian Shan mountain range, slopes to the South of the city (as it gets closer to the mountains). Kok-Tobe is a hill resort with theme park, eateries Etc.
View of Almaty city from Kok-Tobe. Almaty, which is at the foothills of Tian Shan mountain range, slopes to the South of the city (as it gets closer to the mountains). Kok-Tobe is a hill resort with theme park, eateries Etc.
A bull statue … At Kok-Tobe, Almaty, Kazakhstan.
The cable car to Kok-Tobe was conked out and we were taken in a van. The van driver had a DeathWish for sure. The speed at which he was driving through the narrow streets ….
From Kok-Tobe. Note the RollerCoaster path. Thought it was a neat idea to have a motorless RollerCoaster all the way down, through natural terrain.
My guide Anastatia in front of a souvenir shop I shopped at. Liked the colorful dress the shop owner (next to her) was wearing.
White Peacock! This is a new one for me. At Kok-Tobe, where they have some animal enclosures.
View from Kok-Tobe. There was a foggy haze at sunset time. Almaty is a pretty large city.
Kazakhstan Hotel. At one point, the tallest building in the nation.
Zeleny Bazaar or Green Bazaar, Almaty. Fruits? ✅ Vegetables? ✅ Meats (Including Horse meat)? ✅ Dried Fruits & Nuts? ✅ Fish? ✅ Processed Meats (E.g. Sausages)? ✅ A hub of activity.
The magnificent Zenkov Cathedral, Almaty, Kazakhstan. Really blew my mind 😱 The most amazing fact is that it is (mostly) made of wood. Though no nails were used, a kind of iron brackets were. The idea was to built an earthquake-resistant structure. Started in 1904 and finished in 1907. Withstood the earthquake in 1911. After vandalism and destruction during the Soviet period, it was restored back to Russian Orthodox Church in 1997.
Almaty Metro, Kazakhstan. Though the capital is Nur-Sultan (formerly Astana), Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan (and also the former capital, till 1997 I believe). There is only 1 Metro line, with 11 total stations. Locals use the Metro a lot. Each station is made unique. For e.g. There is a station “Moscow”, with pictures and art depicting that great city. The Metro stations as well as the trains are spectacularly clean. There is a train every 9-10 minutes and the arrival time for next train is prominently displayed. Explored all 11 stations.
On one of the days, I was too tired for a sit-down restaurant meal. Opted for a Bakery-based quick meal, with a slew of these items. The food was on the bland side.

Adios!

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